Thursday, August 2, 2018

Glop Inside Rear Window

I was finally able to get some usable pix of the residue on the inside surface of the rear window.






Since I'm going to pull the hatch to repair the rotten paint in the jamb area at the top, and the leading edge of the hatch, I'll have it properly supported to work on it. I've got a couple of more chemicals to try, gasket remover and paint stripper which both contain MEK, and both of which I've used to remove baked on decals on outside glass.

This is the jamb area where the rear of the roof drops down into the recess where the hatch fits.


You can see how the paint was applied heavily enough to run over the edge, but, uh...guys? I think you missed a spot.

And further into the opening we have the usual dirt along with some mild surface rust.


All of this can be done easily with the hatch off the car, and it simply has to be done. I'm sure the bottom of the top leading edge of the hatch will be a horror show.

And since I'm stalled until I can get some muscle over here to help pull the hatch, I pulled the carpet out of the back in preparation to install the new carpet this winter.



Since this picture was taken I've pulled the back seats out, as I'm doing the "rear seat delete". I'll make up something from plywood or particle board, and have the upholstery shop carpet it. I can get exact matching carpeting by-the-yard from ACC, the company I bought the carpet kit from. 

All through the car, the vinyl is split, cracked, and brittle from the sun. This split is in the passenger rear seat  area, and the one below is the top of the passengers door panel. If you run your fingers along the top of the door it crunches like potato chips. The foam under the vinyl is completely disintegrating.




The upholstery shop has some work to do on these after I pull them out and drag them down there.

6 comments:

  1. Be careful! Some of the local shops might spot your talents and put you to work.

    ReplyDelete
  2. If it were on the outside, I'd use a single-edged razor blade. With what you have on the inside, I wouldn't try that within a foot of that defroster grid because I know I'd slip and cut the "wires".

    Does MEK dissolve that conductive paint? You might need to use a scalpel and magnifiers to gently scrape at that stuff.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The crud on the outside was mostly severe water spotting, and the wet sanding and polishing took most of that off. What's left will be hidden under the spoiler.

      Excellent question on the MEK, and one I hadn't considered. The paint stripper could very well attack it, and you just might have saved me some grief.

      I'll look into it further, since I hadn't considered that MEK (potent stuff!) might dissolve the defog grid.

      Delete
  3. One of my Hazmat instructors referred to MEK as Methyl Ethel Bad Stuff.
    But, it works for many hard cleaning jobs.

    ReplyDelete
  4. I used to work with MEK as an aircraft painter in the USAF, we called it Methyl Ethyl Death. It will dissolve plastic and eat through nitrile gloves given a minimum of time, so I'd use it very carefully around anything softer than fully cured poly paint.

    ReplyDelete

Keep it civil, please....

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