Sunday, September 10, 2017

Jeep Maintenance....

Started off this morning by replacing the two gas struts that hold open the rear hatch, and the one for the hood. Then I changed the "cabin" air filter for the passenger compartment and the wiper blades.

Then out came the power tools, floor jack and jack stands, and I commenced to replace the rear rotors and pads.

Making sure the parking brake was OFF and the front wheels were  chocked securely, I jacked the car up and pulled the drivers rear wheel off. The caliper came off easily, but the rotor....SHEESH!

Took me about 20 minutes to find some videos on YouTube showing how to do it. It's really quite simple....you just wail away on it with a BFH until it comes loose!

I found by using a big pry bar between the rotor and caliper mount I didn't have to bash on it as much as the people in the videos were bashing on it.

Took longer than I thought, and it was nice to have my son over to help with the big, heavy rims and tires, and flying the floor jack.

Got the rear finished, but it wasn't all that many years ago that I would have continued and done the fronts, too.

Those will have to wait until tomorrow. I'm trashed and filthy and need a shower and a good night's sleep to do this again.

7 comments:

  1. PB Blaster - ***the HIGH FLASHPOINT formula*** - and a propane torch. That and a 5 gallon bucket of high temp anti-seize should be prominent part of any backyard jeep mechanics toolbox.

    Oh and a 6' length of pipe. And tools with a lifetime warranty.

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    1. I always wind up looking like the Tin Woodsman after I get done with even minor repairs to my beat up old jeep.

      Delete
  2. I use PB Blaster regularly. I didn't need a torch to remove the rotors, just banging on them while prying against the caliper mount.

    I have a MAPP gas torch that I use once in a while, and I'm going to get an oxy-acetylene once we've bought our house in Colorado.

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  3. Smart! We're not 21 anymore... :-)

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    Replies
    1. Some things I'll do, and others I'll pay to have done.

      Brakes, where it's just replacing worn out stuff, I'll do.

      Just finished the fronts. New rotors and pads, and inspected everything visible while doing it.

      All the rubber boots on the front CV joints, steering rack, and suspension bits are in great shape; no tears or leaks, or even any "dampness" indicating seepage.

      Took 3 hours, and I didn't get too dirty!

      Delete
  4. Use a big air hammer to "ring" the rotors for a bit. You'll know when it is time to stop when the rust dust stops falling out.

    then a light tap will usually do the trick.

    https://smile.amazon.com/Sunex-SX243-250-Mm-Barrel-Hammer/dp/B000AU956U/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1505216341&sr=8-13&keywords=air+hammer

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  5. Lacking an air hammer, I just use a 3lb hand sledge.

    I also found that prying on the rotor with a 24" long pry bar while banging away helped a lot.

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Keep it civil, please....