Always seems to be that the "last 10%" of things to get done on a project always take more than 10% of the time!
Spent the whole day (so far....) farting around cleaning up various bits and pieces of The Great Front End Rebuild.
Like the bellows boot that covers the inner workings of the right side of the power steering rack and pinion gear.
The boot was torn in half when I bought the car, BUT unless you were looking right at it, or the wheels were turned full lock to the left AND you were looking right at it, you didn't notice it. The only evidence at the time was a few drops of liquid under the right side of the car. The boot had been ripped long enough that dirt and grit got at the seal on that end of the steering gear, and wore them enough that now it drips.
I have a rebuilt steering gear waiting in the box in the garage, but I'm not going to swap it out until I get back. Yeah, I know I'll have to eat the cost ($85) of another 4-wheel alignment after I change it, but the one in the car now doesn't leak much fluid, it'll be another "Big Deal" to swap it out, and it's NOT a safety issue, as the inner tie rod ends are (still) tight, and there's no slop in the steering, so the dirt only got to the outermost seal.
The "hardest" part of swapping out the bellows boot today was removing the outer tie rod end, and getting it back in exactly the same position it was in so that it didn't throw the existing (unknown quality) front-end alignment off.
I painted a stripe on the inner tie rod end, and used the "Edd China Method" of removing and replacing it.
I counted the turns until it came off, and then screwed it back on the same number.
Simple and effective, and will work more than "good enough" to get me to the alignment shop next week.
One more item crossed off The List.....
The last thing I really have to do other than doing the final torquing of the lower control arm bolts and the strut rod nut, is to replace the power steering high-pressure hose. This is the item that my "original" smog test place said was "Spraying Fluid EVERYWHERE!", and refused to smog the car on safety grounds. Even though I could only see a very few, very small droplets of fluid, I grudgingly accepted their decision as I had a power steering hose blow on me once. And because that car (another Toyota Celica, no less!) also had a cracked exhaust manifold on the same side of the engine as where the hose was, the fluid lit off under the hood with rather spectacular results. One of my neighbors saw it happen as I was coming down the street and said he thought they were filming some kind of action/adventure movie, and I was part of the special effects......
So, yeah, that hose has GOT to be replaced!
And while I'm down under the car in GreaseLand, I'll also replace the return line.
I was planning on starting the hose replacement Saturday, BUT "duty calls", and I've been asked to help provide some help escorting some visitors on the Iowa, so this gets put off (le sigh...) until Sunday.
On the plus side, I've lost 12 pounds since I started actively working on the car (again), and I can now bend over and touch my toes again.
Which might come in real handy if The Hildebeast sneaks in to the White House this fall.....
Admiral Yamamoto infamously said "You cannot invade the mainland United States. There would be a man with a rifle behind every blade of grass."
And so it should be, a nation of riflemen....
Friday, September 9, 2016
Thursday, September 8, 2016
Brake Bleeding
Got the front brakes bled today.
Between the Russell "Speed Bleed" screws, and the MityVac, it's a one-man operation!
I started by slurping out as much fluid as I could from the master cylinder reservoir with the MityVac, and then wiping out the reservoir with a clean shop towel.
The fluid that came out looked like VERY bad coffee, and the plastic reservoir was filthy with rusty colored slime.
Took most of a quart of new DOT3 fluid before it was coming out clean from the bleeder screw on the caliper, and the drivers side is the closest to the master cylinder.
Generally, you start bleeding at the brake that's furthest from the master cylinder, usually the right rear, but I've done it different ways at different times, and it never seemed to make a difference where I started from.
So, one more item crossed off the list!
Between the Russell "Speed Bleed" screws, and the MityVac, it's a one-man operation!
I started by slurping out as much fluid as I could from the master cylinder reservoir with the MityVac, and then wiping out the reservoir with a clean shop towel.
The fluid that came out looked like VERY bad coffee, and the plastic reservoir was filthy with rusty colored slime.
Took most of a quart of new DOT3 fluid before it was coming out clean from the bleeder screw on the caliper, and the drivers side is the closest to the master cylinder.
Generally, you start bleeding at the brake that's furthest from the master cylinder, usually the right rear, but I've done it different ways at different times, and it never seemed to make a difference where I started from.
So, one more item crossed off the list!
Wednesday, September 7, 2016
New Shoes for Ms. Swan.....
The new rims are "XXR-531", and the tires are Toyo Proxes T1R.
And between the suspension rebuild and the mods, she ought to be able to really dance now....
The OEM wheels were 14x7, and the tires were 225/60-14.
The new hardware is 16x8, and 245/45-16.
Here's a "top view", kind of, of the OEM vs new:
The new tires are 20mm wider, about .79", and are "45 series" instead of "60 series".
I picked this size tire as it has the same "rolling radius" as the OEM tires, which means the speedometer should read the same.
HOWEVER...they look a little "shorter" to me, which means my "optimistic" speedo will be even more so. Oh, well...makes it harder to get a speeding ticket when the speedo indicates 65, and you're really doing about 62, as it is now.
The tires are also much newer technology even though they're both radial construction.
And between the suspension rebuild and the mods, she ought to be able to really dance now....
The OEM wheels were 14x7, and the tires were 225/60-14.
The new hardware is 16x8, and 245/45-16.
Here's a "top view", kind of, of the OEM vs new:
The new tires are 20mm wider, about .79", and are "45 series" instead of "60 series".
I picked this size tire as it has the same "rolling radius" as the OEM tires, which means the speedometer should read the same.
HOWEVER...they look a little "shorter" to me, which means my "optimistic" speedo will be even more so. Oh, well...makes it harder to get a speeding ticket when the speedo indicates 65, and you're really doing about 62, as it is now.
The tires are also much newer technology even though they're both radial construction.
Monday, September 5, 2016
Right Side Strut Installed!
Geez....things are going so good today that I'd better find a BIG piece of wood to knock on!
And at the top, I installed the other mounting plate for the strut tower reinforcing bar:
I'll mess around a bit with installing the Raptor Racing braided stainless steel brake lines, and fix a screw-up on my part.
I accidentally installed the anti-rattle spring clips on the driver's side caliper upside down.
I didn't notice it until I was starting to rebuild the passenger side caliper, and as soon as I pulled the old pads, it smacked me right in the eyeballs.
I don't have to pull the entire caliper. Just remove one bolt, and pivot the caliper up just like I was changing the pads. Then remove the outer pad, flip the spring clips round, and put it all back together.
And at the top, I installed the other mounting plate for the strut tower reinforcing bar:
I'll mess around a bit with installing the Raptor Racing braided stainless steel brake lines, and fix a screw-up on my part.
I accidentally installed the anti-rattle spring clips on the driver's side caliper upside down.
I didn't notice it until I was starting to rebuild the passenger side caliper, and as soon as I pulled the old pads, it smacked me right in the eyeballs.
I don't have to pull the entire caliper. Just remove one bolt, and pivot the caliper up just like I was changing the pads. Then remove the outer pad, flip the spring clips round, and put it all back together.
Sunday, September 4, 2016
"Driving Ms. Swan....The Adventure Continues....."
Well, here's another update on things.
The right side strut has been completely refurbished with a new top mount, a new coil spring, and a new KYB shock insert.
The hub has new wheel bearings and a new seal, and the mate to my left side StopTech "Sport Rotor" is mounted.
Then I put the hub/disc assembly on the spindle, adjusted the wheel bearings, and put in a new cotter pin, and tapped on the dust cover, followed by installing the caliper with the new "PosiQuiet" ceramic brake pads, new Russell "speed bleeder" screw, and braided stainless steel line.
The lower control arm has been refurbished with a new Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing, and new polyurethane cushions for the strut rod, or "Lateral Locating Link" if you speak American cars!
I'm beat, as I've done all this work in the last couple of days, compared to taking two weeks to do it the first time.
It's nice having all the tools, AND the knowledge gained doing it the first time.
Final assembly of the right side will start Monday. I should be able to get the lower control arm and strut reinstalled in just a few hours this time, compared to a couple of days for the left side.
Then I'll flush the brake system and bleed the front brakes, put the wheels and tires back on her, drop her to the ground and bounce her a few times, and then do the final torquing of the lower control arm bolts and strut rod nuts.
Then on to the the rear.....
The right side strut has been completely refurbished with a new top mount, a new coil spring, and a new KYB shock insert.
The hub has new wheel bearings and a new seal, and the mate to my left side StopTech "Sport Rotor" is mounted.
Then I put the hub/disc assembly on the spindle, adjusted the wheel bearings, and put in a new cotter pin, and tapped on the dust cover, followed by installing the caliper with the new "PosiQuiet" ceramic brake pads, new Russell "speed bleeder" screw, and braided stainless steel line.
The lower control arm has been refurbished with a new Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing, and new polyurethane cushions for the strut rod, or "Lateral Locating Link" if you speak American cars!
I'm beat, as I've done all this work in the last couple of days, compared to taking two weeks to do it the first time.
It's nice having all the tools, AND the knowledge gained doing it the first time.
Final assembly of the right side will start Monday. I should be able to get the lower control arm and strut reinstalled in just a few hours this time, compared to a couple of days for the left side.
Then I'll flush the brake system and bleed the front brakes, put the wheels and tires back on her, drop her to the ground and bounce her a few times, and then do the final torquing of the lower control arm bolts and strut rod nuts.
Then on to the the rear.....
Saturday, September 3, 2016
L.A. Fleet Week
Had good crowds down at the Iowa yesterday. The US Navy has two ships open for tours, and the US Coast Guard has one.
The USS America LHA-6, and USS Wayne E. Meyer DDG-108, represent the Navy, and the WMEC-618 Active is there for the Coast Guard.
Friday was kind of the kick-off day, and Saturday, Sunday, and Monday are expected to draw about 100,000 people for the 3-day weekend.
If you're headed down there, get there EARLY, as parking will be absolutely insane.
As much as I'd like to, I just can't be more active for Fleet Week this year. I'm under the gun to get the Supra finished by next weekend so I can get the front and rear ends aligned, and have some "shakedown time" driving here to make sure she'll be ready for the trip to Vegas.
The strut from the right side of the car has now been completely rebuilt, just like the left side, and today I'll pull the Lower Control Arm and get started on it. I would expect the right front to be completed by Sunday evening. Then it's bleed the brakes, drop the car to the ground and do the final torquing of the suspension bolts, and on to the rear.
The USS America LHA-6, and USS Wayne E. Meyer DDG-108, represent the Navy, and the WMEC-618 Active is there for the Coast Guard.
Friday was kind of the kick-off day, and Saturday, Sunday, and Monday are expected to draw about 100,000 people for the 3-day weekend.
If you're headed down there, get there EARLY, as parking will be absolutely insane.
As much as I'd like to, I just can't be more active for Fleet Week this year. I'm under the gun to get the Supra finished by next weekend so I can get the front and rear ends aligned, and have some "shakedown time" driving here to make sure she'll be ready for the trip to Vegas.
The strut from the right side of the car has now been completely rebuilt, just like the left side, and today I'll pull the Lower Control Arm and get started on it. I would expect the right front to be completed by Sunday evening. Then it's bleed the brakes, drop the car to the ground and do the final torquing of the suspension bolts, and on to the rear.
Thursday, September 1, 2016
SpaceX Loses One On The Pad
Been there, done that with NSS-8.
Being a launch provider is a risky business. You WILL lose a vehicle and/or the payload once in a while.
Good to hear no one was injured.
We now know why...(courtesy of Irish)...
Being a launch provider is a risky business. You WILL lose a vehicle and/or the payload once in a while.
Good to hear no one was injured.
****UPDATE****
We now know why...(courtesy of Irish)...
Wednesday, August 31, 2016
Clean Up Day!
Didn't get a bunch done on the car today. Installed the second half of the new braided stainless steel brake hose after I figured out how the mounting clip holds it to the strut.
To do that, I had to jack the car up and put a jack stand on the passenger side and pull the wheel and tire off. Once I saw how the OEM hoses were routed and attached, it was perfectly clear to me. This was a case of "I should have taken a few pix of it all stock", which I promptly did of the passenger side while it's all intact.
And I busted all the bolts loose on the passenger side so the strut is 90+% ready to be removed.
I'm hoping that now that I have a bunch of tools I didn't have before I started this, and the experience of doing it, that the rebuild of the passenger side will go much smoother than the driver's side did.
The other thing I did was to clean up and organize the workbench, throw out the trash can full of the dirty paper shop towels I use, wipe down some tools and put them back where they belong, and throw out a bunch of now empty ( !! YAY !! ) parts boxes.
Thursday should be a good day, and I figure I can easily get the strut pulled, pull the hub/brake disk assembly, and replace the spring and shock absorber insert.
Friday I'll be on the Iowa all day as we're having a radio event to commemorate VJ Day, and if I'm not too frazzled after all the "L.A. Fleet Week" activities, I'll take my wife out for dinner.
I really wanted to be an active participant in Fleet Week this year, but the "Supras in Vegas" event is a month earlier this year, and I let myself get jammed in a scheduling conflict by not getting off my duff and starting the work on the Supra earlier.
Oh, well...at least I'll be down there one day to support the Iowa.
To do that, I had to jack the car up and put a jack stand on the passenger side and pull the wheel and tire off. Once I saw how the OEM hoses were routed and attached, it was perfectly clear to me. This was a case of "I should have taken a few pix of it all stock", which I promptly did of the passenger side while it's all intact.
And I busted all the bolts loose on the passenger side so the strut is 90+% ready to be removed.
I'm hoping that now that I have a bunch of tools I didn't have before I started this, and the experience of doing it, that the rebuild of the passenger side will go much smoother than the driver's side did.
The other thing I did was to clean up and organize the workbench, throw out the trash can full of the dirty paper shop towels I use, wipe down some tools and put them back where they belong, and throw out a bunch of now empty ( !! YAY !! ) parts boxes.
Thursday should be a good day, and I figure I can easily get the strut pulled, pull the hub/brake disk assembly, and replace the spring and shock absorber insert.
Friday I'll be on the Iowa all day as we're having a radio event to commemorate VJ Day, and if I'm not too frazzled after all the "L.A. Fleet Week" activities, I'll take my wife out for dinner.
I really wanted to be an active participant in Fleet Week this year, but the "Supras in Vegas" event is a month earlier this year, and I let myself get jammed in a scheduling conflict by not getting off my duff and starting the work on the Supra earlier.
Oh, well...at least I'll be down there one day to support the Iowa.
Tuesday, August 30, 2016
Rebuilt Left Strut Installed
GROAN.......what a pain.
My wife helped, learning how to operate and adjust my floor jack as I muscled the 50+ pound assembly into place.
I think she learned a few new words, too.....
I had to use two long, tapered drift pins to get the alignment correct between the bolt holes in the steering knuckle and the threaded holes in the bottom of the strut housing.
A couple of pumps on the floor jack, and POP!, the parts lined up, and the steel locating sleeves on the steering knuckle piloted in to their bores on the strut housing, and the bolts went all the way in by hand.
Always pays to clean the threads when you take something apart....
Wednesday I'll replace what's left of the OEM brake hose with the mate to the new braided stainless steel hose already in the caliper, and bleed this side of the system, and put the end link for the sway bar back in. I had to pull it out so I could get the lower control arm to drop far enough so the strut would fit back in.
Then I'll make a final check to make sure all the hardware is "Finger Tight +10%", put the wheel and tire back on, and drop her to the ground.
Then I can do the final torque on all the suspension bolts, and everything on my checklist for this side of the car should be finished.
My wife helped, learning how to operate and adjust my floor jack as I muscled the 50+ pound assembly into place.
I think she learned a few new words, too.....
I had to use two long, tapered drift pins to get the alignment correct between the bolt holes in the steering knuckle and the threaded holes in the bottom of the strut housing.
A couple of pumps on the floor jack, and POP!, the parts lined up, and the steel locating sleeves on the steering knuckle piloted in to their bores on the strut housing, and the bolts went all the way in by hand.
Always pays to clean the threads when you take something apart....
Wednesday I'll replace what's left of the OEM brake hose with the mate to the new braided stainless steel hose already in the caliper, and bleed this side of the system, and put the end link for the sway bar back in. I had to pull it out so I could get the lower control arm to drop far enough so the strut would fit back in.
Then I'll make a final check to make sure all the hardware is "Finger Tight +10%", put the wheel and tire back on, and drop her to the ground.
Then I can do the final torque on all the suspension bolts, and everything on my checklist for this side of the car should be finished.
One more little item that I haven't discussed is also coming along:
This is a mounting plate for a reinforcing bar that ties the two front suspension towers together. It's just roughed in for now, as the final positioning of the plate on the other side and the connecting bar have to be done with the car sitting on it's wheels.
Shelby Mustangs had a bar similar that Ford called an "Export Brace" and included on all Mustangs that were exported. It stiffens the front structure of the car, and supposedly improves the handling. The guys on the Supra forums swear you can really tell a difference, so when one of the forum members did a "Group Buy", I signed up and ordered one.
I also have one for the rear that ties the spring/shock towers together, and I'll do that one (hopefully) next week when I start on the rear suspension.
Time to gather up my tools, wipe them down, and go grab a burger!
Lower Control Arm Installed
Got the LCA (Lower Control Arm) and other bits installed last night. Had to use my 15W LED
rechargeable work light, but "Got 'Er Done". Won't do final torque until
she's on her wheels, on the ground. And I had to make another Tool Run
to Harbor Freight because I lacked a large enough tapered drift to get
the bushing inner spacer properly aligned with the holes in the frame
pocket.
No, I DON'T just wail away on the bolt with a hammer to drive it through!
The LCA bolt and nut are "finger loose" at the moment, as I was just too beat to bother to put the nut and the steering rack "boot protector" back on. I'll get that done today before I install the strut.
This is the end link that might be over tightened. Tried to get it to the TSM (Toyota Service Manual) torque spec, but the nut bottomed out on the bolt before that happened. I'll check the Energy Suspension website to see if they have anything to say about it, but their website is woefully lacking in detailed information.
And props to my "Straw Boss" who makes sure I do things correctly, take proper hydration breaks, and don't get upset and start throwing tools around!
This afternoon's project will be to assemble the 10' x 10' canopy I bought from the place that a CelicaSupra forum member recommended. The temps are bearable outside today as long as you're in the shade. Working out in the hot sun really drains me these days, so the canopy was really a needed item.
And I'm going to make another tool run to get a floor fan for the garage. There's NO breeze against the back wall where the workbench is located, and I wind up soaked in sweat and with sweat running into my eyes, which also slooows me down.
More pix tonight after I get the strut installed.
No, I DON'T just wail away on the bolt with a hammer to drive it through!
The LCA bolt and nut are "finger loose" at the moment, as I was just too beat to bother to put the nut and the steering rack "boot protector" back on. I'll get that done today before I install the strut.
This is the end link that might be over tightened. Tried to get it to the TSM (Toyota Service Manual) torque spec, but the nut bottomed out on the bolt before that happened. I'll check the Energy Suspension website to see if they have anything to say about it, but their website is woefully lacking in detailed information.
And props to my "Straw Boss" who makes sure I do things correctly, take proper hydration breaks, and don't get upset and start throwing tools around!
This afternoon's project will be to assemble the 10' x 10' canopy I bought from the place that a CelicaSupra forum member recommended. The temps are bearable outside today as long as you're in the shade. Working out in the hot sun really drains me these days, so the canopy was really a needed item.
And I'm going to make another tool run to get a floor fan for the garage. There's NO breeze against the back wall where the workbench is located, and I wind up soaked in sweat and with sweat running into my eyes, which also slooows me down.
More pix tonight after I get the strut installed.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
We Hit 'Em.......<i>Now What Happens?</i>
Breaking story from Newsmax.....
-
Yawn....just more Kabuki Theater, but interesting reading, nonetheless. Read All About It Here.....
-
Every so often when I'm checking my PiAware ADSB receiver/display I'll notice an aircraft with a flight path that catches my eye. I...