As opposed to "Mayday", which usually isn't a happy day.....
Weather's been pretty nice, so I'm doing my Day Shift activities outside, and then go on Second Shift for my projects. Day Shift is mostly yard work and general chores / clean-up things, and being with the grandsons when they're here, usually two days a week.
Still working on the Fisher, and it's going to be hand-to-hand once I really get back into it. I checked for stray bits of wire causing a short, carefully checked the back of the board for solder shorts, and pulled the heatsinks off the four transistors to verify they were properly oriented.
No joy
So now I have to start disconnecting things from the Power Amplifier stage to see which supply is drawing all the current. Stay tuned.....Details to follow.....Film at eleven.
On to more enjoyable things, like an old car.
First off, I'd noticed that the power steering fluid I put in when I installed the new hoses 2,000 miles ago (Yes, I flushed the system until it ran clear) was already getting a distinct shade of brown indicating it, or something, was breaking down and putting trash in the fluid. The right side steering rack boot was ripped when I bought the car, and the rack was dripping oil. I put a new boot on it when I rebuilt the suspension, but now I see the left side boot is ripped. It's dry, but but it only a matter of time before the seals go out on this side.
SO......A "Re-manufactured" power steering rack assembly (bought it 11 years ago!), new power steering pump, upgraded power steering fluid cooler, new outer tie rod ends, and new urethane bushings are going to be installed.
The 40 year old OEM rubber bushings are pretty tired, and starting to squeeze out of their mounting brackets, so replacing them will make the steering more precise.
And the obscenely dirty, rank, gross, grody-beyond-the-max and possibly hazardous, carpet is OUT of the car!
In the Summer of 1998 (I found the receipt), the master cylinder for the clutch blew the seal out, and dumped about eight ounces of brake fluid inside the car, soaking the carpet. Since the seal rarely fails all at once, it was leaking inside for quite a while. I can imagine the Original Owner going bonkers adding brake fluid to reservoir constantly, and never seeing a drop under the car! Now it's bad enough to have a spill like this, but you clean it up as quick as you can. In this case, it looks like the carpet, the carpet backing, and the sound deadening mat on on the floor pan marinated in brake fluid for 27 years. And they all bonded together. The only way I can get the backing off the mat is to vigorously wire brush it.
This is after about 45 minutes of brushing it.
Still have more crud to get out of there, but it's coming along. I'm concerned about the mat itself, as it's butyl rubber, and may have to be scraped out and replaced. If it has to come out, I'll replace it with something like "Dynamat".
The passenger side isn't as bad, as all of the brake fluid dumped into the driver's footwell, but it's still going to take a bunch of brushing. All the grey stuff next to the transmission tunnel is what has to come out.
And we have a new addition to the fleet.
The car on the right is the one I bought for myself a couple of years ago. I ran that one while grandson #1 drove my older ARRMA "Senton" short-course truck. He liked mine so much that I bought him the "little brother" of mine. It has a smaller motor and battery, but still goes like stink, and runs beautifully.
Let the games begin!
Couple three things, DrJim....
ReplyDeleteI tried commenting a few days ago, but Brave on my tablet doesn't seem to like your comment system. I'm sure the problem is on my end.
I usually don't like to have a drill press on a workbench. Problem is that the drill press will throw crap everywhere across the bench top. I much prefer a separate stand..
With the Fischer, could en electrolytic cap be backwards? Do you have access to a handheld thermal imager? Those used to be a huge help in finding bad components in high-current draw situations on a PC assembly.
I
My son has his drill press mounted on a separate stand. I don't cleaning up the chips and swarf that it makes, and I just don't have the room for it anywhere else.
DeleteAll the electrolytics have been replaced, and I brought he power up on it before I rebuilt the Power Amp, so I know they're all in correctly. I have an IR thermometer that I use to find hot spots, but nothing was overheating. I only brought it up to about 25VAC when I noticed the current draw was getting out of hand, so I powered it of and took a break.
When I was a QA Test Engineer decades ago and working as the test engineer on a project that used lots of electrolytic capacitors, we found some that were marked wrong out of the hundreds we used.
DeleteAs to the thermal camera idea. When I was a Developmental Electronics Engineer as a Reservist at the Ogden ALC, I was introduced to a unique trouble shooting technic that they had developed. They had missile like telemetry pods that were used on fighters at Red Flag. They couldn't get them repaired nor could they get schematics for them. By scanning a lot of the PWAs with thermal cameras, the full time engineers/techs developed heat maps that could identify bad components by the combined signatures. In your case you know it is probably running hot. An IR camera like this
could be useful for a lot of repairs.
The caps are fine. I'd already powered up the receiver on the variac to test the new bulbs and other things. It wasn't until I replaced the silicon on the Power Amp board that I noticed the problem. I used my hand-held IR thermometer to look for hot spots, but I didn't find any.
DeleteThe weather has been enjoyable, with enough rain to turn everything green. Banner has been enjoying extended balcony time. You continue to make the Supra cleaner than when it came out of the factory.
ReplyDeleteYes, it's been delightful out. Got a lot of items painted, and baked in the Sun, and Luna's been enjoying her big back yard To Da Max!
DeleteI'm going to have to pull the sound deadening pad out of the driver's footwell. The brake fluid wicked up the carpeting, and everywhere it rested on painted metal is now UNpainted metal. And I know it'll be worse under the pad, and I expect big sheets of paint will come off with the pad. Which means priming and painting the floorpan under the pad so I can repair it properly.
Highly recommend replacing ALL bushings with urethane bushings. And be glad the brake fluid wasn't corrosive!!!
ReplyDeleteAll the suspension bushing were upgraded to urethane when I rebuilt the suspension. I didn't do the two on the steering rack because they were OK, but starting to get a bit soggy.
DeleteOn the bright side, all the work you put into your car makes it more valuable.
ReplyDeleteThat's more than I can say for mine. Still, that is a lot of work man!
Yeah, it's turned into a bigger job than expected. Since the dash has to come out to swap the heater core, AND the windshield needs replacing, I'm thinking of having the glass pulled. This will give me more room to get the dash out, AND fix some surface rust on the driver's A-Pillar. I also have to dig out all the OEM sealer to replace the clips that position the glass, and the clips that hold the trim on.
DeleteMy Sweet Little Wife has to be informed, as otherwise she'd faint the first time she saw the glass out of the car.....