tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4901205574058136834.post3353571375213884707..comments2024-03-26T20:17:30.126-07:00Comments on Every Blade of Grass: Olde Skool Tech.....In Action!drjimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05647484115197408897noreply@blogger.comBlogger6125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4901205574058136834.post-38659895301242492912022-01-20T11:52:51.556-08:002022-01-20T11:52:51.556-08:00It's a challenge! Just glad I have the patienc...It's a challenge! Just glad I have the patience, or this thing would have been in the dump by now....drjimhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05647484115197408897noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4901205574058136834.post-45327834156743227212022-01-20T09:32:03.450-08:002022-01-20T09:32:03.450-08:00Ah yes, 'electronic' rat holes... Such fun...Ah yes, 'electronic' rat holes... Such fun (not). Good luck!Old NFOhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16404197287935017147noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4901205574058136834.post-23573575256536702572022-01-19T21:07:40.774-08:002022-01-19T21:07:40.774-08:00It's very tedious. BUT...now that I unsoldered...It's very tedious. BUT...now that I unsoldered the five leads I told SiG about, I can get the four in the "Reactive" housing right on the money. It's just tedious, and I think I'm going to apply some watch crystal adhesive to the parts to lock them in place. It's extremely transparent, and "just strong enough" to hold them in place. <br /><br />Still having the same issues with the lonely "Resistive" housing, though. I checked all the voltages in that part of the lamp driver circuits, and they're all spot-on, so I'm thinking maybe lamp aging.drjimhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05647484115197408897noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4901205574058136834.post-18977582331546956532022-01-19T20:42:28.311-08:002022-01-19T20:42:28.311-08:00During my ET days, I never got to futz around with...During my ET days, I never got to futz around with audio distortion analyzers. I'm learning some good stuff here.<br /><br />The adjustment of the photoresistors sounds absolutely daunting. Good luck with that.CapnBobhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13179687896011182116noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4901205574058136834.post-74822062920352153932022-01-19T14:45:16.430-08:002022-01-19T14:45:16.430-08:00And in a truly "D'OH!" moment, the m...And in a truly "D'OH!" moment, the manual states that you have to pull the five leads between the isolator board and the null amplifier board. This completely takes all the photoresistors out of the circuit, making the measurements valid.<br /><br />It threw me off a bit as I was going by the "Initial Adjustments" section of the manual, right before the "Final Assembly" section, and the leads are NOT connected at this point.<br /><br />The separate "Calibration" section, which I hadn't yet read (D'OH!) tells you to unsolder the leads.<br /><br />Not so much a case of RTFM, but a case of **carefully** RTFM!drjimhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05647484115197408897noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4901205574058136834.post-20739055843219197352022-01-19T05:25:16.592-08:002022-01-19T05:25:16.592-08:00Decades ago (1987?) I spent enough time with HP334...Decades ago (1987?) I spent enough time with HP334s that I thought they were an extension of my body. Today I wouldn't know where to start. Unless there's a deeply buried memory script and "autopilot" started running. <br /><br />Good description of what's going on, and I believe you're absolutely right about checking the bigger picture to get brightness set. Parts drift, after all, and that's completely ignoring the G forces from the whack that bent it up. <br />SiGraybeardhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00280583031339062059noreply@blogger.com